Main Strikes: Loewe Appoints Former Proenza Schouler Designers As Artistic Administrators; Mugler Names A New Designer


MARCH 2025: Loewe appoints former Proenza Schouler designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, as its inventive administrators (Photograph: Loewe)

With the worldwide financial system slowing down, the style business has by no means been extra risky — and designers have by no means been extra susceptible. Prior to now yr, the style information cycle has seen loads of inventive administrators come and go between coveted high spots on the helm of luxurious manufacturers. Veteran figures like Hedi Slimane and John Galliano left their roles at Celine and Maison Margiela respectively, with nothing else lined up (so far as we all know). There have been some thrilling modifications, too: final December, Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta to hitch the home of Chanel, ending months of rumours and speculations about who could be Virginie Viard’s successor. In the meantime, his former function at Bottega Veneta was taken up by Louise Trotter, the previous inventive director of Carven. 

If 2024 was stuffed with twists and turns in style’s so-called “recreation” of musical chairs, 2025 is already seeking to outdo it. Forward, tune into all the foremost shifts inside the style business and compensate for all the style information to know, from inventive director appointments to departures. 

Mugler Names A New Artistic Director As Casey Cadwallader Exits

MARCH 2025: Mugler appoints Miguel Castro Freitas as inventive director (Photograph: Robi Rodriguez, courtesy of Mugler)

Sizzling on the heels of Loewe’s main announcement, Mugler has named its new inventive director: Miguel Castro Freitas.

Freitas succeeds Casey Cadwallader, who has helmed Mugler since 2018. Throughout his seven-year tenure, Cadwallader reinvigorated the French style model based by Thierry Mugler with a contemporary power, providing bodycon kinds and cut-out catsuits that have been embraced by popstars like Beyoncé, Dua Lipa and extra. 

Freitas is a comparatively behind-the-scenes determine within the style business. Previous to his appointment at Mugler, the Portugal-born designer and Central Saint Martins graduate labored at Lanvin, Dior (first throughout John Galliano’s tenure, and once more underneath Raf Simons), Dries Van Noten and, most lately, Sportmax, Max Mara’s sister model.

In an announcement, Danièle Lahana-Aidenbaum, the worldwide model president of Mugler Trend and Fragrances, mentioned: “Miguel lives and breathes the Mugler spirit. His deep understanding of Mugler’s DNA and his huge creativity and expertise made him a pure selection.”

Freitas will be part of Mugler formally on 1 April. He’ll current his first Mugler assortment in the course of the Spring/Summer season 2026 season at Paris Trend Week this September. ⁠

Loewe Appoints Former Proenza Schouler Designers As Artistic Administrators

On 24 March, Loewe named not one however two new inventive administrators: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, previously of Proenza Schouler.⁠

McCollough and Hernandez will take the helm of the Spanish luxurious style model from 7 April. The designer duo will oversee all of Loewe’s collections, together with womenswear, menswear, leather-based items and equipment.

In a joint assertion, the designers shared, “We’re extremely honoured to hitch Loewe, a home whose values and mission align carefully with our personal. We look ahead to working alongside its extraordinary groups and artisans, whose expertise—underneath the distinctive inventive path of Jonathan Anderson—has formed Loewe into the cultural drive it’s immediately.”

The information comes only a week after Jonathan Anderson introduced his departure from Loewe, ending his 11-year tenure. McCollough and Hernandez exited Proenza Schouler in January 2025 after a good longer tenure. The pair, who met at Parsons College of Design, based Proenza Schouler in 2002 and instantly established it as one among New York’s most beloved style manufacturers. They went on to win 5 CFDA awards at their womenswear label.

Sidney Toledano, the chief govt of the LVMH Trend Group, mentioned in an announcement, “I’ve lengthy admired Jack and Lazaro’s work at Proenza Schouler, their eclectic creativity and dedication to craft make them a pure option to construct the following chapter for Loewe.”

Jonathan Anderson Exits Loewe After 11 Years

MARCH 2025: Jonathan Anderson publicizes that his is leaving Loewe (Photograph by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho by way of Getty Photographs)

Jonathan Anderson has formally introduced his exit from Loewe.

The style designer shared the information of his departure on Instagram, a couple of days after Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 assortment was introduced at Paris Trend Week.

“Eleven years in the past, I used to be given probably the most unimaginable alternative: to write down a chapter in a narrative that’s now 179 years outdated,” wrote Anderson. “They are saying all good issues should come to an finish, however I disagree. Whereas my very own chapter attracts to an in depth, Loewe’s story will proceed for a few years to return and I’ll look on with satisfaction.”

Anderson joined Loewe as inventive director in 2013, and he spent the following 11 years shaping the Spanish luxurious home along with his eccentric imaginative and prescient. At Loewe’s style exhibits for women and men, he usually unveiled surreal objects that might go viral, like balloon footwear and hoop attire. He additionally oversaw the model’s buzzy collaborations with On, Studio Ghibli and Paula’s Ibiza. 

Anderson additionally launched the Loewe Craft Prize in 2016. The designer wrote, “We created a platform that genuinely helps and offers visibility to vanishing crafts, younger makers, outdated masters, and new concepts. I want to thank the (Loewe) Basis group, the members of the Jury and Professional panel for his or her time and dedication.”

Reflecting on his legacy at Loewe, Anderson wrote, “Since day one, I envisioned making a cultural model. This concept relied closely on the belief and generosity of the various artists, craftspeople, estates, foundations, museums and galleries who contributed their work. I’m sincerely grateful to you all.”

Anderson’s successor at Loewe has not been named. Many style insiders speculate that Anderson is headed to Dior (Kim Jones stepped down from his function as inventive director of Dior Males in January 2025). The designer will proceed to helm his eponymous label, JW Anderson.

Demna Is The New Creative Director of Gucci

After 10 years at Balenciaga, Demna has been appointed to the function of creative director at Gucci, one of many greatest style homes within the business. He’s anticipated to hitch the home early July, after presenting his closing couture assortment for Balenciaga.

“I’m really excited to hitch the Gucci household. It’s an honour to contribute to a Home that I deeply respect and have lengthy admired. I look ahead to writing along with Stefano and the entire group a brand new chapter of Gucci’s wonderful story,” the designer mentioned in an announcement.

Donatella Versace Steps Down As Artistic Director; Dario Vitale Succeeds Her As Chief Artistic Officer

MARCH 2025: Dario Vitale is the brand new chief inventive officer of Versace (Photograph: Versace/Stef Mitchell)

Over in Milan, Donatella Versace has stepped down as inventive director of Versace after 30 years within the function. She’s going to tackle the newly created function of chief model ambassador, whereas Dario Vitale, who reduce his enamel at manufacturers like Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta, has been put in because the model’s new chief inventive officer.

“I’m really honoured to hitch Versace because the chief inventive officer and to be part of this particular and highly effective style luxurious Home created by Gianni and Donatella,” Vitale mentioned in a assertion. “The Home of Versace has a singular heritage that has spanned a long time and has formed the historical past of style. I need to categorical my honest thanks to Donatella for her belief in me, and for her tireless dedication to the extraordinary model that Versace is immediately. It’s a privilege to contribute to the long run progress of Versace and its international affect by way of my imaginative and prescient, experience and dedication.”

Following the announcement, Donatella shared a heartfelt Instagram submit following the information with the caption, “I hope I’ve made you proud to this point”, undoubtedly a dedication to her late brother Gianni Versace, who based the model in 1978.

Sabato De Sarno Leaves Gucci

FEBRUARY 2025 style information: Sabato De Sarno is leaving Dior, three months after exiting Fendi. Learn extra of the most recent style information. (Photograph: Riccardo Raspa)

Sabato De Sarno is leaving Gucci after two years. The information was introduced by way of an announcement from the Italian luxurious model on 6 February.

In that assertion, Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino says, “I want to categorical my deep gratitude to Sabato for his ardour and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely respect how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such dedication.”

De Sarno joined Gucci as its inventive director in 2023, succeeding Alessandro Michele. The Italian dressmaker introduced a minimalist imaginative and prescient to Gucci’s womenswear and menswear collections, with a give attention to wardrobe staples, coats and tailoring. His Gucci campaigns have been equally simple, and he made an effort to highlight rising fashions in them. De Sarno additionally tapped celebrities like Dakota Johnson, Kendall Jenner, Paul Mescal and Debbie Harry to entrance Gucci’s campaigns.

The 41-year-old designer began his style profession as an assistant pattern-maker at Prada, and through his early years at Valentino, the place he was design director, he targeted on designing males’s coats. De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci, which he joined after leaving Valentino, lasted two years.

De Sarno’s successor is but to be introduced. Gucci will current a group from its in-house design group throughout its Fall/Winter 2025 style present on 25 February, throughout Milan Trend Week.

Kim Jones Exits Dior

JANUARY 2025: Kim Jones is leaving Dior, three months after exiting Fendi. Learn extra of the most recent style information. (Photograph: Instagram / @lewishamilton)

Kim Jones is leaving Dior. The British designer is making his exit mere days after presenting his Dior Males’s Fall/Winter 2025 assortment in Paris, which acquired a standing ovation. In January 2025, Jones was additionally awarded the Knight of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian honour. ⁠

⁠Jones spent seven years on the helm of Dior, taking up Kris Van Assche in 2018. He drew upon the maison’s wealthy archives of womenswear and high fashion to create fascinating menswear. He additionally created buzz with a string of collaborations with the likes of Nike, Kaws, Shawn Stussy, Hajime Sorayama, Travis Scott and Lewis Hamilton. ⁠

⁠On high of being recognised on the CFDA and the British Trend Awards, Jones was additionally awarded an OBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 2020. The information of Jones’s departure from Dior comes three months after he stepped down at Fendi, the place he served as creative director of high fashion and ladies’s ready-to-wear. ⁠

In an announcement, Jones mentioned, “It was a real honour to have been capable of create my collections inside the home of Dior, a logo of absolute excellence. I categorical my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who’ve accompanied me on this glorious journey. They’ve introduced my creations to life. I’d additionally wish to take this chance to thank the artists and mates I’ve met by way of my collaborations. Lastly, I really feel honest gratitude in the direction of Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who’ve given me their full assist.”

⁠Dior has but to announce Jones’s successor. ⁠

Glenn Martens Joins Maison Margiela

JANUARY 2025: Glenn Martens is the brand new inventive director of Maison Margiela (Photograph: Instagram / @kylieminogue)

Glenn Martens has been named as the brand new inventive director of Maison Margiela. 

The Belgian designer succeeds John Galliano, who left the Paris-based style label in December 2024 after a decade. 

“I’ve labored with Glenn for years, I’ve witnessed his expertise, and I do know what he’s able to,” mentioned Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela. The label was based in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela, who retired from the style business in 2009.

“After Martin, who gave life to the maison and its distinctive Artisanal line, and John who made it probably the most cutting-edge couture home on the earth, I’m proud to have a 3rd couturier at its helm,” added Rosso. “Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of High quality Arts like Martin, has already proven his prowess and his imaginative and prescient in couture.”

Martens is presently the inventive director of Diesel — additionally owned by OTB Group — and was previously on the helm of Y/Challenge. The 41-year-old designer left his function as inventive director of Y/Challenge in September 2024, and the French style was shuttered in January 2025. 

The date of Martens’s first style present for Maison Margiela is but to be introduced.

The announcement from Maison Margiela and its mum or dad firm OTB Group didn’t specify when Martens would present his first assortment for the model.

This text was first seen on Grazia Singapore.

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