Massimo Bottura Launches Month-to-month Dinners to Feed Hungry New Yorkers

Twice per week on a tree-lined avenue in Harlem, a workforce of cooks prepares regionally sourced, three-course dinners for 300 individuals an evening. Tables are set with recent flowers and menus are printed for every meal. Waiters in darkish aprons ship plates, usually accompanied by dwell jazz, poetry, or spoken phrase. Neighbors collect at communal tables, consuming and chatting, sharing tales, breaking bread.

The restaurant in query could also be one you’ve by no means heard of: That’s as a result of it’s not fairly a restaurant. Refettorio Harlem is a group kitchen from a nonprofit from Michelin-starred chef and UN Atmosphere Programme Goodwill Ambassador Massimo Bottura and his companion Lara Gilmore: Meals for Soul. Refettorio Harlem, the primary in america, opened in 2020, and is a part of a worldwide community Bottura based in 2015. It now options over a dozen Refettorios throughout 9 international locations.

Andrea Robust

The no-cost eating places are constructed to sort out urgent local weather and diet points: meals waste and meals insecurity. Every Refettorio recovers meals and presents neighbors in want no-cost elegantly served three-course meals with music, artwork, dignity, and hospitality. The Refettorios incorporate different companies that profit the wants of the group. In Harlem, that features culinary coaching, life abilities, rebuilding livelihood for these previously incarcerated, and the humanities. The group additionally does group outreach: In Harlem they’re partnering to assist feed Kids’s Support Companies on 118th Road and the Veterans House down the block.

This previous Monday night time, at its dwelling on the Emanuel AME Church on West 119th Road, a bunch of six Harlem-based cooks — JJ Johnson (Fieldtrip, Bankside), Russell Jackson (Reverence), Celeste and Khouri Beatty (Harlem Brew Soul), Asia Shabazz (Contento), Nino and Bilena Settepani (Settepani) and Aliyyah Baylor (Make My Cake) — gathered to prepare dinner a five-course dinner impressed by the Langston Hughes assortment of poems, Montage of a Dream Deferred. The soiree was held to have fun the launch of Refettorio’s latest initiative: The Harlem Chef’s Lab.

Andrea Robust

Launching in February 2025, the Harlem Chef’s Lab goals to provide a month-to-month sequence of collaborative ticketed dinners for the general public mixing artwork, music, and meals to learn the Refettorio’s twin missions of decreasing meals waste and serving meals with dignity for free of charge. The record of roughly twenty cooks concerned consists of Una Pizza’s Anthony Mangieri, Johnson, Cortney Burns previously of Bar Tartine, Nadav Greenberg of Shmoné, Jackson, Vijay Kumar of Semma, Alessio Rosetti of La Devozione, and Mattia Agazzi of Gucci Osteria Los Angeles, amongst others.

The Chef’s Lab was created to assist the Refettorio’s work: The hope is to develop the record of 20 cooks to 52 to allow them to invite a chef to prepare dinner each week of the yr. The concept for Chef’s Lab grew from the collaborative spirit amongst native cooks and Refettorios: Bottura has been inviting chef associates to come back, create, and share since its inception in 2015, and in Harlem, visitor cooks have been popping in each few weeks to prepare dinner for the group.

On the soiree on Monday night time, cooks served bread miso maitake mushroom tartlets, escabeche of branzino with roasted plantains, braised oxtails with coconut rice grits, and beer mac and cheese to a bunch of almost 100 individuals together with native artists, musicians, and authors, associates from the group, sponsors, elected officers, and members of town’s meals coverage workforce.

“The work of having the ability to make sure that all the meals that’s coming into our metropolis is getting on the plates of New Yorkers is so vital,” stated Ora Kemp, senior coverage advisor with the Mayor’s Workplace of Meals Coverage, who attended launch occasion on Monday. “The Refettorio ensures our neighbors are getting the meals and the social helps they want.”

The objective of the Harlem Chef’s Lab goes past fundraising. “We hope the Harlem Chef’s Lab dinners encourage individuals to rethink the unbelievable worth our meals system presents earlier than losing, whereas preserving the dignity, hospitality, and sweetness all individuals deserve, regardless of their lived expertise,” stated Jill Conklin, Meals for Soul’s govt director.

Conklin hopes the Chef’s Lab will create a method for the broader public to expertise the enjoyment of a Refettorio meal. “When you find yourself making an attempt to speak the significance of cultivating social inclusivity, there is no such thing as a higher method than to ask individuals in to expertise it,” stated Conklin.

Harlem Refettorio

Since 2020, The Harlem Refettorio’s Meals Rescue Program has saved greater than 60,688 kilos of meals. They’ve served 60,500 meals to neighbors in want, and their pantry program has delivered greater than 5,000 kilos of recent meals to the local people. In 2024, they’re on tempo to eclipse the meals restoration numbers in each weight and worth.

“The ideology round eating with dignity is one thing that resonates with us,” stated Russell Jackson, chef of Reverence in Harlem, a 98 % zero-waste restaurant.

The meals do extra than simply feed people; they tackle social isolation too. “We’ve all the time seemed for a method wherein we will convey rapid worth to somebody’s journey via life,” stated Free Meals Harlem founder and Refettorio Harlem director Bob Wilms. “Meals is a connector. We don’t simply provide a free meal however create group across the desk. The result’s a spot wherein everybody concerned advantages, volunteers, workers, and shoppers, feeling an immense sense of belonging and objective. Everybody comes away with extra.”

Refettorio Harlem on the Emanuel AME Church, 39 W. 119th Road, New York, NY 10026; Comply with alongside on Instagram for the date of the primary Harlem Chef Lab dinner.