Made-from-scratch brown sugar is not a brand new thought by any stretch, however up to now, it wasn’t one thing I ever cared about. Partially, I used to be skeptical {that a} “selfmade” mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses may one way or the other style any higher than “actual” brown sugar…a mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses.
My logic was that, until you bothered to begin with a jar of notably scrumptious small-batch molasses, there have been no actual good points available—a logic that fell aside the second a buddy of mine referred to as in a panic as a result of she was out of brown sugar for her favourite dessert, with visitors all however on her doorstep. Guiding her via the method of constructing the swap was simple, she did not need to drop all the pieces to drive to the shop, her bourbon pecan layer cake turned out stunning, and I realized the true worth of selfmade brown sugar: expedience.
In case you ever run out of brown sugar, falling again on a jar of molasses to whip up an emergency batch is a superb plan B—as long as you go about it the precise approach. Initially, meaning utilizing true molasses and never blackstrap, which ought to by no means be utilized in any recipe until it is referred to as for by identify (full report on that subject right here). The second half of the equation is definitely understanding the equation. See, store-bought brown sugar is about 10% molasses by weight, however that does not imply you’ll be able to simply multiply a given weight of white sugar by 0.1 to find out how a lot molasses is required. At first blush, that calculation makes excellent sense (and that is the method you will see bandied about most frequently on-line), however it winds up making the brown sugar too gentle. Even lighter than gentle brown sugar, which is what most recipes bear in mind.*
Until a recipe calls particularly for “darkish brown sugar,” it is secure to imagine gentle brown sugar is what the creator meant. Making darkish brown sugar is about including not simply extra molasses but in addition darker molasses, and, for the aim of this publish, that is a bit extra difficult a subject than I am ready to unpack.
For a cup of white sugar (seven ounces), 10% is about one tablespoon (3/4 ounce), which is fairly handy for people measuring by quantity. However as soon as the white sugar and molasses are combined collectively, you have obtained 7 3/4 ounces whole, making that molasses simply 9% of the entire weight. Now, you might be pondering, “Shut sufficient,” however within the realm of baking, that may be a harmful factor. With no full 10% molasses content material, selfmade variations will behave extra like white sugar than brown, which might have a big effect on cookies specifically, altering how they unfold, rise, and brown. You possibly can try a full breakdown of these variations right here.
With a view to precisely mix your personal gentle brown sugar at dwelling, it is necessary to keep in mind that for nonetheless a lot molasses you add, that a lot white sugar wants to return out. Going again to my earlier instance, seven ounces of sugar must be lowered to six 1/4 ounces, in order that 3/4 ounce molasses can be 10% of the entire weight. Spelling it out sounds difficult, however do not overthink it. All it’s essential to bear in mind is that 6 1/4 ounces of white sugar plus 3/4 ounce molasses equals seven ounces of brown sugar.
You may make up an enormous batch that can hold for a few month, however when you have a scale, you’ll be able to calculate precisely how a lot white sugar and molasses you will want to exchange any given amount of brown sugar. Simply multiply the load of the brown sugar by 10% to learn the way a lot molasses you will want, then subtract that quantity from the entire to find out the load of the white sugar you will want. In case you occur to have any evenly toasted sugar readily available, maybe left over from blind-baking a pie, it may be used like white sugar so as to add some caramel notes that can give selfmade brown sugar a extra nuanced sweetness.
The precise colour of the outcomes will rely in your particular model of molasses and whether or not or not the sugar is toasted, however you’ll be able to usually count on it to have a considerably redder undertone than conventional brown sugar (possible because of the deeper brown shades discovered in additional concentrated types of molasses). Ounce for ounce, selfmade brown sugar is extra voluminous than what you discover on the retailer, just because it hasn’t had an opportunity to compact over time. However, as long as it is measured precisely, in each preparation and use, it’s going to behave in a lot the identical approach.
On the left, we’ve samples from a batch of my favourite One-Bowl Oatmeal Cookies made with industrial brown sugar, and, on the precise, cookies made with DIY brown sugar. Whereas they unfold somewhat extra irregularly total, the latter cookies nonetheless averaged about three inches throughout. If I abruptly found I used to be 86’d on brown sugar, I might gladly take that discrepancy over the choice of getting no cookies in any respect.
I will possible all the time favor the comfort of economic brown sugar, which is each reasonably priced, dependable, and attractive. However when push involves shove, realizing how you can make a comparable brown sugar from scratch is a trick all bakers ought to sustain their sleeves.