Tohoku Journey Uncover Japan’s Rugged Coast


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On a current journey to Japan, an area instructed me, “Tokyo isn’t Japan…to know Japan it’s important to exit and discover.” And if you happen to’ve adopted this weblog for some time, you realize that getting off the overwhelmed observe and exploring a hidden area places me in my completely happy place. It’s my favourite approach to journey. Once I heard about Japan’s Tohoku area and the brand new Michinoku Coastal Path– I used to be intrigued as a result of I really like discovering new long-distance hikes.  Instantly, this little-known area in Japan was on my radar.

My journey to Tohoku was initially about mountain climbing a portion of the Michinoku Coastal Path. Nonetheless, I quickly found that Tohoku’s rugged coast provided way more than a mountain climbing journey.  It was a land of resilient individuals, unbelievable seafood, and distinctive cultural experiences that I had by no means encountered earlier than. The area’s intimate really feel and the heat of its individuals made it a very distinctive vacation spot.

Japan’s Most Stunning Shoreline That You’ve By no means Heard Of

Paradise discovered can also be paradise misplaced in tourism.  Overtourism can occur rapidly, and it reaches a tipping level, and immediately, you may have too many individuals all going to the identical locations.   Making certain stability is vital. That’s why Japanese tourism hopes to create extra stability by build up tourism choices in lesser-visited areas like Tohoku.  This is likely one of the causes they created the Michinoku Coastal Path, which initially drew me there.  I assume meaning it’s working.

Tohoku, a area identified among the many Japanese however typically ignored by worldwide vacationers, is a hidden gem ready to be found.  With its beautiful Rias Coast, the one rugged shoreline in Japan, it affords essentially the most lovely shoreline within the nation, as acknowledged by Japan’s Tourism Board.  This distinctive magnificence is a testomony to the area’s attract.

Whereas Tokyo and Kyoto often is the go-to spots for a lot of guests, Tohoku is a treasure trove ready to be explored by those that search journey and pure magnificence.

Tohoku Map

Map of Tohoku prefectures

Since this text focuses on journey to the Tohoku East Coast, I’m specializing in the Miyagi, Iwate, and Aomori Prefectures. The coastal cities in these prefectures have been reachable by native trains and buses. This shoreline is called the Sanriku Coast – a dramatic, rocky shoreline with numerous bays, cliffs and coves that stretches for over 300 kilometers alongside the Pacific Coast of the Tohoku Area.

What Makes Tohoku Journey Distinctive

Tohoku’s rugged shoreline and low variety of vacationers are two of the issues that make touring there so nice.  The third merchandise, although, is a bit distinctive.  Home and worldwide guests go there as a result of the area suffered certainly one of Japan’s most vital pure disasters. 

The March 11, 2011, Nice East Japan Earthquake and the following tsunami left a profound mark on the tranquil Tohoku area. Towering waves—some as excessive as 130 toes—surged as much as six miles inland, claiming roughly 20,000 lives and devastating communities. The aftermath of this tragedy required years of effort to clear the rubble and start therapeutic.

Tohoku tsunami wall
A tsunami wall defending the village behind it

Rebuilding Tohoku After the Tsunami

Tsunami warnings tohoku

Over a decade later, they rebuilt (typically relocating) the cities, created new warning techniques and constructed extra monumental tsunami partitions.  The Michinoku Coastal Path  (MCT) is likely one of the newest websites/experiences they made to assist the area rebuild emotionally, carry tourism again to the area, and, in flip, add to the economic system of a distressed space. A 1,000 km mountain climbing path means revitalization of the complete shoreline, new inns, eating places, tourism experiences, and a rebuilt rail line to maneuver individuals alongside the coast. 

I used to be stunned to study that even the visiting Japanese vacationers are all in favour of studying how the Tohoku area has been rebuilt. They rent tour guides to stroll them via sections of the path alongside the Rias Coast and train them concerning the tsunami. They use it as a studying expertise in order that the youthful era is aware of what they need to and shouldn’t do throughout a catastrophe.

As I hiked alongside the MCT I heard tales of adults and kids alike who perished as a result of they have been following incorrect directions from others – though they probably knew higher and will have saved themselves.  This was arduous to listen to – but additionally not shocking.

Japan is taken into account a collective society.  They worth group concord, shared duties, and prioritizing the well-being of the group over particular person needs. There’s a hesitation to behave independently. This worth is deeply embedded in Japanese society, influencing conduct, decision-making, and responses to crises. On this case, it price individuals their lives.

Tendenko  – A New Cultural Philosophy

The area is now being taught Tendenko. Tendenko is a Japanese idea that emphasizes particular person survival throughout disasters. It teaches that in moments of disaster, individuals ought to deal with saving themselves with out worrying about others, trusting that everybody will do the identical. This idea has gained prominence within the area’s post-disaster tradition, influencing conduct and responses to crises. It’s arduous to alter a tradition, however all over the place I went alongside the coast, I heard about Tendenko.  It’s taught in colleges and talked about in houses, and also you’ll additionally find out about it if you happen to go to the area. 

Tohoku Tsunami Memorials

A number of memorials commemorating the lives misplaced, the aftermath, and the rebuilding course of are dotted alongside the coast.  It brings the complete catastrophe and the impression on the communities to life. You’d be amiss if you happen to visited the realm and didn’t go to one of many a number of memorials to study extra and join with this space extra deeply. They’re lovely and shifting.

I like to recommend the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum in Rikuzentakata Metropolis.  The constructing and grounds are somber however lovely, and the museum and workers have been phenomenal. See a chronological exhibit of artifacts and pictures documenting the catastrophe, and listen to guides speak about their private expertise on that fateful day. It additionally consists of a big outside house the place you possibly can stroll and ruminate on the facility of nature.  It is usually the house to the Miracle Lone Pine Tree – an homage to the one surviving tree of the complete Takata Pine Forest.  It serves as an emblem of hope for the complete area.

The area has additionally chosen to honor the reminiscence of the day by leaving a number of buildings as they have been – mangled, twisted, and in rubble. As well as, as you journey across the space, you’ll additionally see excessive water traces marked on buildings.  These markings function a grim reminder of the catastrophe’s scale and the intense water ranges reached.

Discovering a Journey Connection in Catastrophe

I do know this may occasionally not look like a typical place to journey to – however that’s why I beloved it.  In reality – I felt nearer to the Tohoku area than every other in Japan as I traveled up the coast.  I had heard concerning the tsunami in 2011. Nonetheless, I didn’t absolutely perceive it till I noticed and skilled the area myself. It was academic and shifting, drawing me nearer to Japan basically.

That is no totally different than different standard journey locations -Hiroshima, Katrina Excursions, the ruins of Pompeii, and Chernobyl. That is all thought of Catastrophe tourism – a subsection of Darkish tourism (Killing Fields in Cambodia, 9/11 Memorial and Museum, Brazil slum tourism, Auschwitz-Birkenau, and so on) .  If it’s not for you, I perceive. I deal with it as a approach to study extra concerning the individuals and tradition and take learnings from it that have an effect on how I take a look at and join with the world as an entire.

Tohoku Coast Experiences To not Miss

Not every part in Tohoku is concerning the catastrophe – it’s only a small however significant a part of the area.  There are nice conventional journey adventures and cultural experiences available alongside the coast!  As I hiked a few of the finest components of the Michinoku Coastal Path, we additionally had an opportunity to expertise different actions alongside the Tohoku coast. 
Tohoku journey gives one thing for anybody who enjoys the outside

Jodogahama Kayaking

Jodogahama Seaside is a must-stop in your Tohoku coastal travels.  It’s a part of the Sanriku Fukko (reconstruction) Nationwide Park  , which was created after the Nice East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami as a means to assist revitalize the area.

Cease on the Jodogahama customer heart, stroll the pathways alongside the seashore, and revel in this scenic space.  It’s best identified for its uncommon white rock formations; jagged volcanic rocks jutting out of the turquoise waters.  The white pebble seashore is standard for locals to sunbathe and swim.  I went kayaking in order that I may get a better take a look at the rock formations. You’ll be able to simply lease kayaks and SUPs and even go on a coastal boat journey from the seashore.  And, in fact – there’s loads of mountain climbing across the seashore and customer heart.  In reality, the MCT path goes proper alongside the seashore!

Deal with your self and keep on the completely positioned, luxurious Jodogahama Park Lodge.  Perched on high of the cliff above Miyako Bay, you may get an unbelievable view of the rocks and the seashore beneath. The lodging are conventional and smooth, the meals is scrumptious, and the onsen is the cherry on high! This was my favourite lodge throughout my time on the Tohoku Coast!

Eat at L’Oreole Tanohata

Chef Katsuyasu Ito
Chef Katsuyasu Ito

Chef Katsuyasu Ito, a French-trained chef who went to culinary college in Tokyo, is bringing tremendous eating to the Tohoku Coast at L’Oreole Tanohata. Situated proper on the Michinoku Coastal Path, the superbly designed restaurant with all wooden accents is perched on the coast, giving it unbelievable views and a rugged really feel.

Watching Chef Ito create our multi-course lunch was like watching an artist at work.  I really like open kitchens and I had a lot enjoyable watching the cooking and plating of every intricate domestically sourced dish.  Chef Ito desires to coach guests and locals concerning the abundance of unbelievable meals that comes from this area.  Every part he makes is domestically sourced.  He additionally works with the native college lunch program, educating youngsters on the area’s components.

“If I wish to be wealthy and generate income, then I’d construct a restaurant in one of many huge cities. However that’s not the explanation why I wish to cook dinner. I wish to assist the group and produce individuals right here.”

Most of his company come from out of city and keep to benefit from the wealthy bounty of the Tohoku Coast. One of many chef’s targets is to guard the smaller communities in Japan as a result of, as he famous,  everybody normally leaves and strikes to huge cities.

Like a “three-star restaurant” in a small European village, you possibly can take pleasure in a meal that makes essentially the most of native assets, together with the view from the window!

Make dinner or lunch reservations at L’Oreole Tanohata.

Glamping on the Tanesashi Coast

Go to sleep below the celebrities and get up to crashing waves.  The Tanesashi Pure Garden is a uncommon coastal grassland the place lush inexperienced grass grows naturally proper as much as the sting of the Pacific Ocean. This mix of vibrant inexperienced fields and the deep blue sea creates a panoramic, nearly surreal panorama. The garden is dotted with tents within the evenings as persons are allowed to camp there. 

You’ll be able to expertise tenting amongst different outside lovers whereas additionally having fun with a little bit of pampering! Glamping experiences are additionally provided right here, full with a cushty, heat cot and bedding and a chef who makes dinner and breakfast for you on the garden!
Be taught extra about reserving your tent right here.

Ebiking in Rikuzentakata Metropolis

This metropolis was rebuilt after the tsunami and pushed again from the coast.  Nonetheless, they didn’t simply push it again; they created it on greater floor. Basically they created a disaster-resistant city by elevating the peak of the land they constructed on and shifting the residences to greater floor.  Town and area have been one of many hardest hit alongside the coast.

Lease a bicycle or take part in a motorcycle tour that may be organized on the Rikuzentakata Bussan Heart related to the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum. It’s a good way to get round this bike-friendly area.  The tour will take you round a few of the tsunami destruction, however you’ll additionally cycle out into the countryside via quiet rice fields and out to the scenic coast.

biking tohoku

Kessenuma Brewers Desk Sake Tasting Dinner

Get pleasure from a novel pairing dinner the place company can study concerning the sake, native seasonal meals, and seafood. Style dishes made with seafood caught in Kesennuma. Every dish is accompanied by a collection of native sake from Otokoyama Honten, an area sake brewery, for a pairing distinctive to Kesennuma. You’ll be able to resolve to have the tasting dinner or dinner and an added tour of the sake brewery.

Kessenuma Bay
The restaurant appears to be like out on Kessenuma Bay

Tohoku Coast Excursions

Suppose I’ve swayed you to contemplate visiting the Tohoku coast, and you’re in search of somebody to do the entire planning for you. In that case, you’ll wish to try a few of these excursions within the area.

Ottsworld Small Group Mountain climbing Tour

I’ve put many of those experiences into my small group tour that takes you alongside the highlights of the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Meet locals, study concerning the tsunami, and actively discover the attractive  Tohoku shoreline.

Ottsworld small group tour Tohoku Japan
Be a part of me in Tohoku in 2025!

Oku Japan Self-Guided Mountain climbing Tour

This primarily covers the northern a part of the Tohoku coast and sticks primarily to mountain climbing the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Nonetheless it consists of lots of the areas I lined above.  They’ve curated the very best components of this path, permitting you to stroll via essentially the most memorable areas earlier than persevering with onto the following part by way of prepare, bus, and taxi.
Oku 7 Day Self Guided Mountain climbing Tour
Ottsworld Low cost –get 5% off any Oku Japan tour with code OTTSWORLD5

Tohoku Emotion Practice Tour

If mountain climbing isn’t your jam, try this each day prepare tour alongside the Sanriku Coast.  TOHOKU EMOTION runs on the Hachinohe Line (Hachinohe Station to Kuji Station), which runs proper alongside the coast. The prepare slows down on the most scenic spots in order that passengers can absolutely respect the surroundings.  However better of all is, this can be a foodie prepare.  This restaurant prepare options an open kitchen the place you possibly can even watch the meals being ready. Get pleasure from a menu that includes native Tohoku meals whereas having fun with the coastal views.
Reserve a spot on Tohoku Emotion Practice Tour

Tohoku Emotion
Tohoku Emotion Practice

The way to Get to Tohoku

The best approach to get to numerous components of Tohoku is by prepare. The Shinkansen (bullet prepare) is my advisable means of touring from Tokyo. You may get a regional rail cross that provides limitless journey within the Tohoku area on designated trains. The JR East Go consists of Tokyo, the Tohoku area, and surrounding areas.

The JR East Go affords limitless rides on JR buses and trains touring on the JR traces Tohoku together with the Tohoku Shinkansen.

Try your choices for the JR East Go or Entire Japan passes if you happen to plan to journey to different areas.

JR East Rail Pass

Sendai metropolis in Miyagi prefecture is taken into account the key gateway to the Tohoku area. It affords straightforward connections to coastal cities by way of prepare or bus. It takes lower than 2 hours to get from Tokyo to Sendai. When you attain a serious metropolis like Sendai, you should utilize native trains or buses to entry smaller coastal cities alongside the shoreline

The Most Highly effective Wave in Tohoku

One of the vital impactful cultural experiences I skilled in Tohoku was the ‘Tokhoku wave.’  This wave has completely nothing to do with the tsunami; it’s a easy wave goodbye.  In Tohoku, it’s a cultural certainty that the lodge workers will come outdoors and wave goodbye to you.  Not solely the inns however the tour guides, customer heart staff, restaurant homeowners, and typically the cooks – everybody within the hospitality area will come out and bid you goodbye like I’ve by no means skilled earlier than.

This gesture is stuffed with gratitude and heat, typically carried out with such enthusiasm that it turns into a jubilant, two-handed movement. What stood out most was its exceptional persistence—it continues till you’re totally out of view!

The Tohoku wave will most actually draw you even nearer to this area. The wave looks like a surge of pleasure carried via the air, embodying appreciation, a heat farewell, an invite to return, and a deep respect for others. It’s an prolonged goodbye of tsunami proportions. You’ll be able to’t assist however really feel the jubilance and gratitude they’re providing you with.  You’ll be able to’t assist however wish to come again and expertise the Tohoku coast once more.

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