Why Blaufränkisch Wine Is a Sommelier Favourite

Blaufränkisch, the Austrian crimson grape with a humorous identify, is taken into account probably the most underrated varieties, based on wine professionals. 

“These are critically enjoyable wines,” says Warren Johnson, co-owner of Saint City’s in Charleston, South Carolina, a petite wine bar with an ever-rotating listing. “Take a Nebbiolo, a Grand Cru Beaujolais, a Northern Rhône Syrah, and a Pinot Noir, for good measure. Wrap an enormous, crimson, pleased bow round it, and there you go.”

The grape has the potential to make richly racy, elegant, and refreshing wines. 

“Blaufränkisch permits for the proper intersection of fruit, acid, spice, and floral parts,” says Morgan Beck, winemaker at Johan Vineyards in Oregon, and a robust Blaufränkisch advocate. “It’s a wine I might simply scent for days.”

What’s Blaufränkisch?

Blaufränkisch is the mother or father grape of each Gamay and Rotburger (Zweigelt). The identify, “blau,” or blue, is a reference to its deep, inky coloration. 

The primary information of Blaufränkisch date again to 1862, when it appeared at a grape selection exhibition in Vienna. As its reputation grew, Blaufränkisch bloomed in New York’s Finger Lakes area (Dr. Loosen), Oregon (Johan Vineyards), and Canada’s Ontario (Rosewood), the place it’s at house within the heat summers and icy winters. 

“After 14 years of working with Blaufränkisch, we really feel it’s an attractive translator of terroir,” says Beck. “We see a likeness to the sanguine and iron minerality that defines our Pinot Noir, however with extra acidity, a floral and spice dimension, and a darker fruit profile.”

Given how fond many within the wine business are for Blaufränkisch, why hasn’t it hit marquee standing? Its pronunciation could also be a hurdle (BLAU’-fran-kish). It additionally has many regional nicknames. 

“It has too many names,” says Beck. “Blaufränkisch in Austria, Lemberger in Germany (and Washington state), Kékfrankos in Hungary, Borgonja in Croatia, Frankovka in Slovakia, Gamé in Bulgaria, and Burgund Mare in Romania.”

Jahdea Gildin, sommelier at New York Metropolis’s Luthun, says that the wine won’t be on shoppers’ radars as a result of “persons are in all probability extra accustomed to the basic areas of France and Italy.”

For its followers, or those that are curious, nonetheless, the barrier to entry is low and accessible.  

“It may simply be missed on a wine listing as a result of issue of pronunciation, however it’s a fantastic glass that may usually be discovered at a really inexpensive worth,” says Maddox.

Beck agrees, “The standard-to-price ratio could be very excessive.”

What does Blaufränkisch style like?

The darkish grape is understood for its nervy acidity and excessive tannins, balanced by darkish black fruit. 

Johnson recommends it to company who recognize Gamay. “We promote, and drink, gobs of Gamay,” he says. “When a visitor orders one, I ask in the event that they’ve had Blaufränkisch. The reply is, as a rule, a ‘what?’ As soon as they’ve tasted it, the response is 99% ‘wow.’”

Grey Maddox, of Tre Luna Bar & Kitchen, places the grape within the Pinot Noir camp. “Though this grape may be tannic, particularly when grown in a high-elevation space, it may be very nicely balanced and made right into a refreshingly shiny crimson wine,” he says. “It’s as if Pinot Noir and a Loire Cot [Malbec] had a child.”

Michael Myers, beverage director and sommelier of Counter in Charlotte, North Carolina, defines Blaufränkisch as “a dance between fruit and spice, brightness, and tannin.” He acknowledges that it is not for everybody. 

“It’s for individuals who prefer to have complicated wines with depth,” he says. “My traditional promote is, for individuals who just like the herbaceousness of Cabernet Franc, the aromatics of Syrah, and the fruit of Pinot Noir, [they] will love the grape.”

What are the completely different types of Blaufränkisch?

“Blaufränkisch is a super-approachable grape,” says Gildin. “I really feel its physique construction [has the] capacity to suit into loads of completely different profiles, relying on who makes it.” 

The grape can produce wines which might be juicy and chillable, or extra unctuous and severe.

Some producers go for extra indulgent oak growing older, whereas others lean on minimal pores and skin contact and stainless-steel fermentations. 

“You’ll be able to have scrumptious, zippy, crimson fruit-driven quaffers, and extra severe examples which might be extraordinarily ageworthy,” says Beck. “Nervy, with concentrated fruit and a sleek tannin construction.”

Wine professionals and producers agree that the grape has loads of vary, and shoppers ought to take be aware.

“Some Blaufränkisch can find yourself more energizing and cleaner, whereas others are extra textured and spherical,” says Gildin. “Whether or not you want basic wines or one thing extra funky and pure, there’s a Blaufränkisch for you.”

What does Blaufränkisch pair with?

The vary of types and underlying acidity make Blaufränkisch a Swiss Military knife when paired with meals.

Johnson likes it alongside charcuterie, “particularly a cotto like salame rosso or mortadella,” he says. “You can even pair it on the lighter facet with a roast rooster or duck, and heavier with braises and sausages. It is extremely versatile.”

Myers suggests Blaufränkisch with any dishes you’ll pair with Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, or any fuller crimson grapes. “And I personally love a leaner lower of meat with inexperienced greens like asparagus,” he says.

Give the wine a slight chill earlier than serving, about half-hour within the fridge, and drink it late into the evening with buddies. “Possibly you are popping over to a good friend’s for a barbecue, and among the company have actual wine palates, and a few do not,” says Johnson. “Put a chill on a Blaufränkisch and you are a star. I assure it.”

Blaufränkisch bottles to strive

There are a number of glorious examples of Blaufränkisch in the marketplace. These 4 bottles, listed alphabetically, are a superb approach to discover all that the grape has to supply.

Claus Preisinger Blaufränkisch Kalkstein ($26)

This wine, from Austrian wunderkind Claus Preisinger, is lighter than most Blaufränkisch, with just some days of pores and skin contact. That offers it an brisk acidity and a moody oomph of blue fruit. It tastes like evening swimming after a celebration: wild, energetic, and earthy, with unbridled acidity.

In case you’re not fairly bought on Blaufränkisch, strive his Kalkundkiesel, a mix of the grape and Pinot Noir.

2020 Georg Prieler DAC Blaufränkisch ($65)

“Georg Prieler does an exceptional job of making a wine of sophistication and excellence,” says Maddox. “His wines have been nicely wanted for the final 50 years and [are] a stable instance of how particular they are often.” Aged in oak for 20 months, it is vibrant and pushed by ruby fruit.

2021 Johan Vineyards Blaufränkisch ($45)

An American wine with an Austrian edge, this Oregon-born Blaufränkisch is mineral and sanguine, with darkish fruit and a moody acidity.

Wachter-Wiesler Eisenberg Bela Joska Blaufränkisch ($22)

Aged in massive barrels with a kiss of whole-cluster berries, rising star Christoph Wachter’s Blaufränkisch is full of aromatic violets, black fruit, and a touch of darkish spice to steadiness out ebullient fruit notes.