A backstage session with Yohji Yamamoto on his seasonal whys and hows typically result in extra questions – and the occasional curveball.
Requested what led him so as to add to his fall lineup silhouettes from Limi Feu, the 25-year-old label designed by his daughter Limi Yamamoto, he replied: “In all probability as a result of within the very close to future, she’s taking my place, as a result of I’m very drained.”
You’d be too, in case you’d had half the concepts he’s trotted out over time. And by the sounds of it, there’s nonetheless extra within the tank.
Behind his fall season, there have been “so many causes, so many ambitions,” the elder Yamamoto stated.
The one he provided was that “it is a assortment for winter, [which] is chilly, so it’s good to put on one thing that doesn’t make folks taking a look at you’re feeling chilly,” he stated, twinkly-eyed poker face effectively in place.
The present began with simple takes staples for cold-weather dressing, together with chimney-neck sweaters so excessive they went over the mouth, a raincoat and a leather-based jacket.
From there, Yamamoto began to slice and splice into those self same supplies to create an impression of layers with not one of the bulk. The cowl neck of a coat revealed a leather-based shoulder masking whereas a scarf-like swathe tumbled down the entrance, whereas one other had curvilinear seaming that highlighted the interaction between matte suiting and the luster of leather-based.
Different instances, what regarded like draping was a crafty assemblage oof parts with out stitching them in place, utilizing steel rings, snaps and lacing that telegraphed an impression of on-the-go adaptability.
Occasional flashes of purple and even a multicolor marl added visible intrigue. In lieu of a finale, pairs of fashions got here out sporting black coats, which they turned inside out to disclose lush purple quilted variations. It was an illustration of his expansive creativity, but additionally the vary he can pull out of a chunk of cloth.
The place have been these Limi Feu silhouettes, then? When requested what number of there had been, he countered with “how did you rely?”
May cues maybe be a minute flame jauntily perched on the pinnacle like a fascinator (“Feu” is French for fireplace)? The punk vibe of a pinstriped gown with frayed handkerchief hems cinched with a corset with likewise tooled edges?
The back-and-forth of questions is unending. From the seems to be of it, so is the Yamamoto story.